There are heavenly choirs of Seraphim and Cherubim, Thrones and Dominions, Virtues, Powers and Principalities, Guardian Angels and Archangels. And there is St. Michael the Archangel, fierce warrior against evil, conqueror of demons, chief of princes, defender of faith, and patron of soldiers, police and doctors. Hailed as “the great prince who has charge of [God’s] people” (Daniel 12:1), his name means, “Who is like God?”
I have always had a special affinity for St. Michael. Since I was a little girl I have visited the mountain upon which he is known to have appeared, the Shrine consecrated by the Archangel himself, and the small town nestled atop named in his honor. Monte Sant’Angelo on the Gargano, or Mountain of the Holy Angel, was my father’s hometown where he spent the years of his youth. Overlooking the Adriatic Sea, it is a modest town “rich in celestial virtue.” Built over the site where St. Michael appeared, Basilica Santuario San Michele holds a sacred cave. It the oldest shrine in Western Europe.
I remember my grandmother praying the rosary in the grotto, so, from a young age, I understood that it was a holy place. My father took much pride in his culture, his family and all the people living in his village. With a father named Michele (pronounced Me-ke-le) and a grandfather named Angelo, Monte Sant’Angelo has always felt like home and has been a cherished family refuge.
This year, four years after my last visit with my mother, I came with my son on the Feast of St. Michael. Previously, his apparitions were observed on May 8th. Since 1960, St. Michael has been honored with Archangels Raphael and Gabriel on September 29th, the anniversary of the dedication of his basilica.
We arrived on the eve of his feast day as hundreds of street vendors busily prepared their concession stands throughout the town. As always, we were lovingly embraced by our relatives and treated with the utmost kindness and care.
The highlight of the weekend is the procession around the town. The bishop carries the sword of Saint Michael, blessing the faithful throughout the streets overflowing with thousands of pilgrims. A tray bearing stones from the cave is also carried. A people of faith and tradition, all citizens of the town have a stone in their homes. Their famous, freshly baked bread may be seen through the windows of bakeries adorning the narrow, cobblestone streets. My cousin had the honor of presenting a large loaf as a gift from Monte Sant’Angelo to Pope St. John Paul II during his papacy.
Siamo Pellegrini, the official anthem in honor of St. Michael, was sung throughout the procession: “O glorious Archangel, protect in this way our company that comes crying to you. We are pilgrims, we are your devotees, Saint Michael the Archangel, pray for us.” Also sung in the Basilica, it is the most well-known and classic song among those dedicated to the Archangel.
After the procession we attended Mass in the grotto. Upon entering we saw the altar built on the spot where St. Francis of Assisi once knelt and prayed. Feeling unworthy to enter, he kissed the stone and carved a Cross in the shape of a “T” for “Tau”, the name of the last letter of the Hebrew alphabet. It represents the fulfillment of God’s Word and is a symbol of salvation.
Many saints, including Bridget of Sweden, Thomas Aquinas and Padre Pio, and many popes including Leo IX, Urban II, and John Paul II, in addition to kings, emperors and princes have visited the sacred Shrine.
As the evening came to a close, fireworks lit the night sky and an orchestra played Italian classics in the town center. As I stood with others devoted to the faith and to the Archangel chosen by God to protect it, I glanced up at the full moon and my heart was filled with gratitude. In a place where time seems to stand still, our faith is the common thread connecting us throughout the centuries.
For more information about the Shrine, visit https://www.santuariosanmichele.it/